By-Pass Enclosure
Parklane & Classic
Specific Tip
CrystalLine Specific Tip
- Cutting the threshold: Use a carpenter’s folding
ruler with a slide to assure the most accurate measurement
from inside wall to inside wall. Use the following deductions
to find the threshold measurement. Commit them to memory
for extra speed.
| Parklane By-Pass: 5/16" |
| CrystalLine and Classic By-Pass: 15/16" |
| Signature By-Pass: 9/16" |
- Fitting the curved corners on an acrylic or fiberglass
stall: It is very important for the wall jambs to fit
securely on both ends of the threshold. To do this correctly,
you need to cut and/or file the bottom corner of the wall
jambs to fit the contour of the corners. Parklane and Signature
wall jambs can easily be cut with a chop saw or with a hacksaw
and miter box. The backside of the CrystalLine and Classic
wall jambs can be clipped with a pair of tin snips for extra
speed. After the rough-cut has been made, file the corners
to fit the contour of the stall. Here is
a trick that will ease this process. Look at the change
in your pocket. The quarter, nickel, dime, and penny each
have different radiuses. Place each of them next to the
corner in question. Choose the coin that best defines the
radius of the stall corner. Usually one of the 4 will be
very close. Then, use the chosen coin radius to mark, cut,
file, and check your progress on contouring the wall jamb
to fit. This is most helpful when installing a unit on a
retail sale. If the customer is living in the house already,
you do not want to keep making trips in and out of the house
contouring the wall jamb and checking how close it fits
the stall, nor do you want to leave file shavings on the
bathroom floor.
- Secure the wall jambs to an acrylic or fiberglass
stall: Because acrylic and fiberglass are weaker materials
than tile and cultured marble, do not use the gray anchors
included in the hardware pack. Instead, simply drill 9/64"
holes (1/8" holes for Parklane Bypass) about 1/16" to 1/8"
lower than needed. This will cause your screws to pull down
on the wall jambs as they are fastened to the wall securing
the threshold in place. Start your screw slowly into the
1/8" hole so as not to crack or oyster the fiberglass. Apply
the last bit of torque with a hand held screwdriver to prevent
stripping the hole.
- Securing the wall jambs to tile and cultured marble
units: First use a carbide tipped scribe or punch to
scar the surface of the tile. This will prevent your 3/16"
masonry bit from dancing across the surface of the tile.
There is no need to scribe a cultured marble surface. Then,
drill your hole about 1/16" to 1/8" lower than needed. This
will cause your screws to pull down on the wall jambs as
they are fastened to the wall securing the threshold in
place. Always use the gray anchors included in the hardware
packet when installing on tiled surfaces. It is suggested
to use the gray anchors in cultured marble surfaces as well.
However, some installers prefer to use a 1/8" hole without
anchors. If you choose this option, be careful. The cultured
marble is easily stripped when using a drill gun to install
the screws.
- Cutting the Headers: Use a carpenter’s folding
ruler with a slide to assure the most accurate measurement
from inside wall to inside wall. After obtaining a full
measurement, pull the slide rule in 1/8" to get the exact
length of the header. Using this 1/8" rule of thumb will
give you enough room to install the header without scratching
the wall’s surface.
- The nylon guides on Parklane Bypass panels are positioned
so that they snap with ease into the sill track. The problem
is that sometimes they snap in on their own before you have
made your final adjustments at the roller brackets. Disengaging
the guide can be an aggravating procedure that often produces
scratched rails or even broken guides. Here is the trick
to a quick and damage free disengagement.
- First, raise the corner of the panel so that the bridge
portion of the guide is diagonal.
- Second, place a flat head screwdriver on top of the
portion of the guide that engages the track. Let the weight
of the panel rest on the screwdriver wedging the flat head
between the panel and the guide.
- Next, push down slightly on the handle of the screwdriver.
- Now stop; take a moment to check the position of the
screwdriver in relation to any other metal. You don’t want
it to create scratches on the other panel or the sill.
- To disengage, hold the screwdriver in position as you
pull the door sideways and inward.
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- The most aesthetically crucial step when installing
a CrystalLine Bypass is making sure the towel bar is installed
parallel to the header and the threshold. Some installers
might even say: "Forget aesthetics, what is the best
way to press the compression fitted brackets onto the glass?"
Well, here is the trick to an easy and parallel CrystalLine
towel bar installation.
- First, hang and adjust the frameless bypass panels.
- Second, assemble one end of the towel bar completely
and place the edge of the bracket into the wall jamb bumper.
- Next, with the rubber pad against the edge of the glass,
slide the glass into the compression fitted bracket. A small
spray of glass cleaner can be used to assist in lubrication.
- Last, repeat the process for the bracket at the other
end of the towel bar.
- By pushing the glass panel against the wall, the installer
gains leverage for an easier assembly.
- By placing the towel bar brackets against the wall jamb
bumpers on both sides, the installer effortlessly gains
a parallel position in relation to the header and the threshold.
- Don’t forget to cut away the excess rubber from the
edges of the bracket. After all, the essence of this tip
is aesthetics.
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